Course Handbook: MTB Course (Green)

We covered this during the MTB Green Course

Thank you so much for placing your trust in us and taking a course with us!
We understand that the course day can feel overwhelming with all the practice drills and new information, and it’s naturally difficult to remember every single detail.
That’s why we’re sending out this course handbook, so that after the course, at your own pace,
you can refresh your memory.

Feel free to join our Facebook group The Bikemaestros where you can discuss what you’ve learned in the course, plan rides with other Bikemaestro students, and stay up to date on exciting news and offers from us.

If you’re satisfied with your course experience with us, we’d be incredibly grateful if you’d leave a review on our Google page 🙏
If so, follow this link: https://g.page/r/CfC0dJUR3wU3EAg/review

The Green Course is hopefully just the start of your journey, and we hope you’ll take all the tools you’ve learned during the course with you and continue practicing on your own. It can take thousands of hours of practice to truly master something—so don’t feel discouraged if you don’t get the technique right away. Keep practicing—you’re on the right track!

A natural next step after the basic course is our blue course.
You can also book private lessons (for one or more people), join our Social Rides, and later on, even our mountain bike trips around
the world.

Below is a summary of the basics of bike setup as well as all the theory from the course.

BIKE SETUP / BIKE SETTINGS

Bike setup is a vast topic, and you can get lost in it forever.
However, there are a few simple basics to start with that make a huge difference.
We’ll go over these below.

Brake Settings

Adjusting your brakes properly helps you gain better control, ride more safely, and conserve energy.

Today’s brakes are so powerful that you only need to brake with one finger—your index finger. Braking with one finger also provides greater precision, and it frees up the other four fingers to grip the lever more firmly, which in turn reduces arm fatigue. This is especially important when riding long runs in the mountains or at a bike park. However, one-finger braking requires that the brake levers be mounted correctly to ensure good leverage.

We recommend mounting the brakes as shown in the image on the left so that your finger rests on the outer edge of the brake lever.

We recommend an angle of about 30 degrees for the brake lever relative to the ground, as shown in the image below on the left. If you angle the lever too far downward, it will be difficult to reach comfortably when you lean far back on the bike, and your hand will end up in a position that can make it hard to brace against hard impacts and sudden braking. If you angle the lever too far up (horizontally), you’ll experience poor wrist ergonomics, which in turn can result in strain and pain.

Most modern brakes today have a knob or a small screw for adjusting the distance between the brake lever and the handlebars. We recommend adjusting the lever slightly so that you don’t have to fully extend your finger to reach it, just as shown in the image below on the left. This gives you a more relaxed hand position and better braking power.

Shock Absorber Settings

We recommend visiting the shock absorber manufacturer’s website to find the default settings for the specific shocks installed on your bike. If you’re unsure which model you have, you can email us a photo and we’ll help you out.

If you have a ‘RockShox’ shock, you can download their ‘TrailHead’ app, enter the shock’s serial number, and get the recommended settings for that specific shock model.
You can also visithttps://trailhead.rockshox.com

Bikeradar has a great video for beginners on how to quickly and easily set up your suspension forks. The video is only 10 minutes long, so it’s definitely worth watching:Suspension Fork Setup with Bikeradar

Tire Pressure

Many beginner cyclists ride with tire pressure that’s much too high. This makes the bike feel “unsteady” over rough terrain, and both performance and comfort suffer as a result. Lower tire pressure allows the tires to conform to roots and rocks and “float” more smoothly over uneven terrain. Tire pressure is measured in bar or PSI, and a good starting point for beginners is between 1.3–1.6 bar (18–23 PSI), depending on your weight, the terrain, the weather, and your riding style.

A hot tip is to convert your tires to a tubeless setup. In short, this means removing the inner tubes from the tires, installing special valves, and filling the tires with a specially formulated sealant (UST fluid) that creates a tight seal between the tire and the rim. The UST fluid also automatically seals any small holes in the tire, reducing the risk of a flat if you ride over something sharp. In addition to significantly reducing the risk of flats, you can also ride with even lower tire pressure, which increases comfort and makes it much easier to ride over rough terrain with lots of rocks and roots.
If you’d like to convert your tires to tubeless, we have all the gear you need in our store, and if you’d rather not do the work yourself, our experienced mechanics can of course help you in our workshop.

As mentioned, you can get lost in the details of bike setup forever, but these are some good basics to start with.

If you have any questions or concerns, just reach out to us!

Course Summary: MTB Course - Green

Positioning – Basic Position

The basic position is a standing position you use on hilly terrain for better control, balance, and mobility. If you have a dropper post, feel free to lower the saddle so it’s out of the way and you can move more freely on the bike.
Keep your elbows out and your gaze up—look where you’re going for better posture, balance, and line choice.


Your center of gravity should be centered over the bike, with your weight on your legs. Avoid leaning too far back, as this will cause you to lose grip at the front and impair your steering. If it feels like you’re hanging by your fingertips, you’re probably too far back. If you lean too far forward, it puts unnecessary strain on your wrists. Aim to have your head above the handlebar stem and your hips far enough back so that you can stand balanced on the bike.

A good test to check your balance is to see if you can let go of the handlebars while standing on the pedals. If you fall forward when you let go of the handlebars, your weight is too far forward, and if you fall backward, your weight is too far back.

Position the pedals just in front of the arch of your foot and keep the cranks horizontal. This provides a stable position and reduces the risk of hitting something. Keep your legs and arms slightly bent, and keep your body relaxed so you can move smoothly with the bike.

Remember to let your heels drop slightly downward. This helps you transfer more weight through the pedals, lowers your center of gravity, and makes your position more stable over rough terrain. You’ll also gain better balance and traction, while your legs can work more effectively as shock absorbers. The goal isn’t to overdo the movement, but to maintain a relaxed and stable position where you’re firmly and in control on the bike.

Climbing Techniques in a Seated Position (Level 1)

Your riding position is the foundation of effective mountain bike climbing. By sitting back, you’ll get better traction on the rear wheel, a smoother pedaling rhythm, and save energy during longer climbs.

Focus on maintaining a calm and stable position on the bike. Sit firmly in the saddle but keep your upper body active, with your arms slightly bent and relaxed. On steeper sections, you’ll need to lean your upper body slightly forward to keep the front wheel on the ground and maintain control of the handlebars.

The goal is to find the balance between rear traction and front control. If you sit too far back, the front wheel may start to lift or wander sideways. If you sit too far forward, the rear wheel risks losing traction and spinning out.

Try to pedal smoothly and evenly instead of pushing hard and jerkily on the pedals. A smooth pedaling motion helps the tires maintain traction, especially on roots, rocks, and loose surfaces.

Plan your climb in advance and shift down before it gets steep. Shifting under heavy load puts more strain on the drivetrain and can cause the chain to skip or get stuck.

If you have a dropper post, it’s often best to have the saddle fully or nearly fully raised during climbs to get better power in your pedaling. Also, keep your eyes focused far ahead so you can read the terrain and plan your line well in advance.

Braking Technology

Braking technique is one of the most important fundamentals of mountain biking, and the techniques we teach are often an eye-opener for many students. It’s incredibly common for new riders to use the rear brake too much and the front brake too little, even though the front brake provides the majority of the braking power and control over the bike.

On most surfaces, about 70–80% of the braking power comes from the front brake, with the remainder coming from the rear brake. However, the amount of traction you have determines how hard you can brake with the front brake. On dry, grippy surfaces, you can use the front brake quite heavily, while wet roots, leaves, or mud require gentler and more controlled braking.
On slippery surfaces, brake distribution is often more even between the front and rear to reduce the risk of the front wheel losing traction. In some situations, as much as 40–50% of the braking force may come from the rear brake, especially on loose, slippery, or highly unpredictable surfaces.

When you brake, your body weight shifts forward. To maintain your balance, you therefore need to lower your center of gravity and let your body actively support the bike without leaning too far back. Keep your arms and legs slightly bent, your heels lowered, and maintain a relaxed position that allows the bike to move freely beneath you.

Avoid braking jerkily or locking the wheels unnecessarily. Instead, try to brake gently and progressively by gradually increasing the pressure on the brakes. This provides better control, more traction, and reduces the risk of the wheels losing grip.

Keep your eyes up and focus far ahead on the terrain rather than right in front of the front wheel. This helps you maintain your balance and plan your speed well in advance.

If possible, use only one finger on each brake lever. Modern brakes are powerful enough to brake effectively with one finger, while allowing you to maintain a better grip and control over the handlebars with the rest of your hand.

Down steep ledges (not a drop)

Sometimes you need to ride down steep ledges where a drop isn’t the right choice—for example, if the trail turns right after the edge or if you simply need to maintain control and a low speed throughout the entire section
There’s still an old school of thought in mountain biking that you should lean as far back as possible in such situations. The problem is that this often results in poorer control of the bike. When you lean too far back, your arms become straight, the front wheel lifts slightly, and your center of gravity becomes high and passive. This makes it harder to steer the bike and handle the terrain once the front wheel goes over the edge. In some situations, it can also create a jerky movement where the bike falls forward and the handlebars pull on your arms. If your arms are straight and your body is positioned too far back, the force can push your upper body forward uncontrollably—a very common reason why cyclists go over the handlebars.

Instead, we recommend starting from a stable basic position: centered weight, slightly bent legs and arms, elbows out, and your gaze focused far ahead on the trail. As you approach the ledge, lower your center of gravity by bending your arms and legs more actively, almost as if you’re “compressing” your body over the bike. Your head will then move closer to the handlebar stem while you still keep your weight centered over the pedals. As the front wheel rolls over the edge, let the bike move forward and downward beneath you while your arms and legs gradually straighten to absorb the motion. The idea isn’t to throw your body backward, but to let the bike do the work while your body remains stable and balanced.

If done correctly, the movement often feels much smoother than you’d expect. Many describe it almost as if the edge “disappears” beneath the bike instead of resulting in a hard fall. The result is better control, a lower risk of mistakes, and a position where you’re immediately ready for the next turn or obstacle on the trail.

Up and Over Obstacles (Level 1)

To improve your flow on the trails, you need to be able to clear small obstacles like roots, rocks, and low ledges without getting your front wheel stuck. The key to this is knowing how to lift the front wheel at the right moment.

In our green course, we’ve chosen to simplify this technique compared to how you’d perform a completely correct front-wheel lift. The focus isn’t on perfect technical execution, but on creating a simple and safe way to get into the movement so that more people actually dare to try and succeed in lifting the front wheel off the ground.

The technique we use is based on first compressing the bike and the front suspension by quickly pushing your body downward. Then, you make an explosive upward and slightly backward movement while helping to pull the front wheel up. Think of it almost as if you’re following the movement of the front suspension as it rebounds after compression.

This isn’t the most efficient or technically correct method for a front-wheel lift, but it’s a very good first step toward understanding timing, movement, and how to get the front wheel off the ground. For many students, this is the first time they actually manage to lift the front wheel in a controlled manner over an obstacle.

Once you feel confident with the movement, you can start practicing timing the lift against small reference points such as sticks, cones, or low curbs before using the technique out on the trail.

As the front wheel starts to lift more effectively, you can also begin thinking about helping the rear wheel over the obstacle. One simple way is, just as the front wheel has passed the edge, to shift your weight slightly forward again so that the rear wheel is relieved of pressure and can roll over the obstacle more easily without hitting it.

At the next level—our blue course—we start working on the more correct, but also more technically demanding, front-wheel lift, where we focus on shifting your center of gravity. There, we teach you how to use your body and hip movement to lift the front wheel more efficiently, in a controlled and energy-efficient manner, without having to jerk the handlebars as much.

Brake Control on Steep Terrain (Level 1)


When you start cycling on steeper terrain, your position and brake control become crucial. Many people find steep downhill sections uncomfortable at first, but with the right technique, you’ll gain significantly more control over both speed and balance.

The key is to start from the neutral riding position and then adjust it according to the slope. On steep terrain, you want to lower your center of gravity by bending your arms and legs more actively while bringing your upper body lower toward the handlebars. Keep your head roughly above the stem while shifting your hips slightly backward. The result is a low and stable position where you still maintain good balance over the bike without ending up passively far behind the saddle.

A common mistake is to instinctively shift your weight very far back when the terrain feels steep or scary. The problem with this is that the front tire then loses contact and traction, making it much harder to steer and brake in a controlled manner. Many riders then find it very difficult to slow down, since the front brake can no longer work effectively.

The front brake provides the majority of the braking force, even on steep terrain. On most surfaces, about 70–80% of the braking force comes from the front wheel and the remainder from the rear wheel. On dry, high-grip surfaces, such as bare rock or a hard-packed trail, you can apply even more front-brake pressure and sometimes approach around 90% front braking.
On slippery surfaces, such as wet leaves, roots, or mud, braking force needs to be distributed more evenly between the front and rear brakes to reduce the risk of the front tire losing traction. In such situations, the brake distribution can sometimes be as even as 50–60% front and the remainder rear.

Try to brake gently and progressively instead of slamming on the brakes. Keep your eyes focused far ahead on the terrain and concentrate on maintaining a low, relaxed, and active position where the bike is allowed to move beneath you.

When you start practicing on steep terrain, it’s important to begin on slopes that feel just challenging enough. This gives you the opportunity to practice your position and brake control without panicking or falling back into bad habits. The more confident you become at using the front brake and maintaining the correct position, the more control and flow you’ll have on steep downhill sections.

With plenty of practice, you can ride down very steep sections. In the photo below, you can see Bikemaestro founder Matthias riding down the “Devil’s Slope” on the “Gothenburg Hardline” trail.